The MOHAWK cocktail ring sees a 10mm Tahitian Pearl ingeniously suspended in a platinum setting. The concave profile of the shank travels seamlessly and fluidly into the ‘mohawk’ section, sweeping over the pearl with a dazzle of immaculately grain-set diamonds. The illusion of the suspended pearl required innovative setting techniques: two platinum pins were placed through the pearl and then lasered onto the ridge, giving the impression that the platinum is effortlessly embracing the pearl. Most of the diamonds were set before the pearl and pins were put in place. Once the lasering was finished, the final few diamonds were set covering the pinheads thus enhancing the illusory nature of the setting. AG’s MOHAWK: eminently wearable, innovatively designed and dazzlingly beautiful.
AG wanted to create a piece of jewellery in sculptural form: a cocktail ring that would have an emphasis on powerful geometry yet at the same time possess a simply stunning grace and beauty. The Mohawk moves away from the classical notions which stipulate that the pearl is held at the base or around its diametric edge. Instead, AG envisioned the pearl being suspended as though floating in the air with the setting sweeping over the top of the sphere. In keeping with his geometrical vision, AG had the idea of the metal being manipulated into a twisted figure of eight, with the lower loop to hold the finger and the upper loop to hold the pearl. In all of his designs, AG is keen to expose as much of the central stone and in this piece he wanted the base of the pearl to be completely open to view in a reversal of typical ring designs. Determined to show off the iconic splendour of the pearl, AG envisaged the ‘mohawk’ element of the ring embracing the sphere whilst at the same time giving a striking dazzle of white diamonds set against the black Tahitian stone. With a strong vision for the piece, AG entered into many long discussions with his goldsmith and setter to see whether this seemingly impossible design could become a reality and with some ingenious drilling, pinning and setting the MOHAWK came into being.